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Balkan pepper relish stirs appetites and pride

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It’s a supply of Balkan competition however one ubiquitous odor: the wood-fire roasting of peppers wafting via cities and villages every autumn as households get ready the area’s best-loved relish.

Slathered on bread, nibbled with cheese or served along meat dishes, “ajvar” has for generations crammed the cabinets of wintry weather pantries — and the wealthy unfold’s manufacturing is an issue of no little pride.

“We women all exchange recipes, but everyone thinks theirs is the best,” stated Vesna Arifovic, 44, in Belgrade’s Zeleni Venac marketplace, the place she sells masses of kilogrammes of seasonal purple peppers every day.

Making ajvar (pronounced “eye-var”) starts with this juicy fruit, which is roasted and peeled, minced or chopped and simmered with sunflower oil, giving the relish its deep rusty color.

Flavours diverge around the former Yugoslavia: whilst Macedonians upload aubergine to their much-loved ajvar combine, many Serbian devotees persist with salt, sugar and vinegar.

“There are two kinds of people, the ones who tasted ajvar and the ones who haven’t been to Serbia yet,” declared Serbia’s vacationer board on Twitter in September.

Bosnian manufacturer Ivo Lukenda — whose recipe comprises all the above, plus garlic — believes his nation’s ajvar is awesome.

“We consider our product to be the best,” the 65-year-old stated proudly, over a grill of blackened peppers in his central village of Ljetovik.

– Team effort –

Ajvar introduction is a labour-intensive ceremony carried out with gusto in kitchens and yards because the leaves start to flip, even supposing some is now heavily produced all the way through the 12 months.

Neighbours accumulate for a tipple of selfmade rakija (fruit brandy) prior to the painstaking process of peeling peppers starts.

“It seems to me that ajvar and peppers bring people together… this red colour seems to make them happier,” stated Stevica Markovic in his village close to town of Leskovac, a southern Serbian house famed for its peppers.

Markovic’s ajvar has develop into a supply of source of revenue: he and his circle of relatives produce as much as three,000 jars a 12 months from their rural kitchen and promote them for 280 to 550 dinars (2.40 to four.60 euros) every.

He and his spouse Suncica sit down on low stools via a vat of the nice and cozy orange mush, filling and briskly stirring dozens of glass jars.

“What makes Leskovac’s ajvar stand out is the raw material, the pepper that grows in the Leskovac basin. We have 280 sunny days a year, very good land and enough water,” stated the 44-year-old, who heads an area affiliation of ajvar manufacturers.

Homemade Leskovac Ajvar and Macedonian Ajvar are each now registered with the World Intellectual Property Organization so as to offer protection to their logo names.

– Battle of branding –

A Slovenian corporate’s bid to patent ajvar within the 1990s sparked outrage within the Balkans, in keeping with media stories.

Love of the relish stretches southwest to coastal Montenegro, whilst the Croatian corporate Podravka is likely one of the best-known mass producers.

“The truth is that all the big noise about ajvar started with the idea of food branding” within the former Yugoslavia, stated Tamara Ognjevic, a consultant in gastronomic heritage and director of the cultural Artis Center in Belgrade.

What used to be as soon as the keep of families “became interesting to the food industry… and everybody — Macedonians, Bulgarians, Serbs, even Slovenians — in one moment started claiming it was theirs”.

Ognjevic stated type of vegetable relish perhaps got here to the Balkans with the Ottomans, who dominated a lot of the area for round 500 years and imported New World plants similar to peppers.

The first recognized use of the identify ajvar used to be via 19th-century eating place house owners in Belgrade, maximum of whom have been from northern Macedonia, she stated.

– The subsequent hummus? –

“Ajvar” is believed to derive from the Turkish phrase “havyar” for sturgeon caviar. The identify used to be most probably supposed to indicate a in a similar fashion unique product, stated Ognjevic, given the complicated preparation and then-costly components similar to sunflower oil.

Ajvar’s modern day makers at the moment are looking to enlarge its dependable fan base.

Philip Evans, a British resident of Skopje, in 2011 co-founded Pelagonia, a Macedonian meals vary exporting ajvar to greater than a dozen international locations, together with Britain and France.

“We felt that this was a product that had never found its place in world food,” the 36-year-old stated.

“Look at products like harissa or pesto or hummus for example, they’ve really become mainstream food items for people, and we just felt that ajvar really had that potential.”

A proponent of Macedonia’s candy and sun-ripened peppers, Evans is conscious about the “very, very passionate” emotions that ajvar conjures up around the Balkans.

“Everybody’s auntie makes the best one,” he stated.

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